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DAY 9 Over the Hai Van Pass to Hoi An

This was a relocation day, 3 hour drive to the southern city of Hoi An, passing over the 500m “Sea Clouds” pass. Some stops along the way to have a look at specific areas of interest.

Small fishing village situated on a lagoon – very basic wooden boats, rusty old engines and quite basic fuel tank and feed system.

To the Pass itself. A natural 500m barrier dividing Vietnam into geographical north and south. Climate wise, the mountains prevent the cooler northern air from affecting the south, giving the south a hotter climate.

There are 2 ways to transit the mountain – tunnel or road. Commercial traffic now uses the new tunnel to avoid the 26km ascent with an average gradient of 8%, plus associated switchbacks.

New road leading to the tunnel.

With a natural border between North and South together with an obvious logistical route for supplies, it comes as no surprise to find military structures at the top (both French and American) and to learn that this was a hotly contested area.

As usual amongst the evidence of recent war, a monument going back over 200 years nestled between the pill boxes, the political significance of which lay in the demarcation between two kingdoms – the Dai Viet in the north, the Champa in the south.

The Hai Van Gate , constructed in 1826 to demarcate north and south.

Shrine hidden away in the overgrowth

Winding our way down the pass to flatter, rice paddy land, we could see the city of Da Nang in the distance. This is basically a port that caters for tourists, and as such is a modern, functional metropolis with zero ambiance or attraction. However the place to go for your happy Bhudda lies on the outskirts of town.

The place was founded in the shadow of the Marble Mountains, the name of which alerted the locals that there may be marble in them. After many years of hacking away, the mountain was in danger of disappearing and apparently the government stepped in to stop/control production.

Tham Thai Pagoda

Arrived at the Hotel said goodbye to driver and guide then immersed ourselves in the cold towels and welcome drinks provided for us. Shown to our room and we were more than pleasantly surprised to find that we had been upgraded and could now boast a substantial balcony with sunbathing chairs and jacuzzi. Mrs M seemed quite pleased at this turn of events.

Unfortunately, Mrs M was starting to show signs of a GI situation, and using the medium of running quickly through the room, communicated this very effectively. Drawing a veil over the tumultuous, explosive end to the day, suffice to say, I dined alone that night.

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