Situated on the eastern side of King William Island, Gjoa Haven is all about Amundsen. The name derives from his ship (Gjoa) when he overwintered here 1903 - 05 en route to becoming the first European to successfully navigate the Northwestern Passage.
Whilst whiling away the hours, Amundsen learned all about Arctic survival from the Inuit which, ultimately led to his successful South Pole Expedition. The locals were a branch of Inuit called "Netsilik" who traded knowledge for things like needles, knives, wood and metal tools.
The Netsilik today are mostly remembered for chocolate.
He learned simple things like using clothing made from sealskin instead of wool, which became heavy when wet. He also learned the art of dog-sledding rather than relying on manpower to haul supplies. Ruthlessly, he took a surplus of dogs that became food for the other dogs.
The town is what we have come to expect - colourful houses, functional, dirt roads and friendly people.
It's easy to spot the signs that in a couple of months this town will be in the depths of winter.
Gjoa Haven is the closest community to the wrecks of Erebus and Terror and locals from the town are employed to camp near the wrecks on the western side of the island to monitor access, as the wrecks are protected and no public access is allowed.
The bell from Erebus is on display in the Heritage Centre, together with recollections and photographs of the contact between the Franklin and Amundsen personnel.
Under International Maritime Law, because the Erebus and Terror were Royal Navy ships, they are the property of the United Kingdom.
Before the wrecks were discovered, but believing them to be in Canadian waters, the UK agreed a Memorandum of Understanding in 1997 that Canada could own the wrecks.
In 1999 however, Canada created the new territory of Nunavut to settle a longstanding territorial dispute with the Inuit. Under the Nunavut Land Claims Agreement, the Inuit gained ownership of archaeological sites and artefacts within Nunavut's boundaries.
Discovery of the wrecks in 2014 and 2016 led to clarification of ownership and the wrecks were formally handed over to Canada and the Inuit Heritage Trust. In return, the Canadian Government bore the costs of discovering the wrecks together with the removal and conservation of artefacts from the ships.
Peps Log : Zodiac trip to Goa Haven
Looked like Pond Inlet from the ship
Last meal then flight to Montreal tomorrow
Video show and Captains farewell
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