Spending time at sea, cruising this fascinating and unique area with access to academic minds who are engaged in the science of the planet was a truly educational experience.
The draw of following a route that was hard won with much sacrifice, and to see the remnants of that sacrifice scattered on desolate shorelines enlivens a healthy respect for those adventurous Victorian gentlemen who set off in their wooden boats.
Erebus
Terror
We learned a lot about change. Principally climate change, but more unexpectedly, cultural change - but not in a good way.
The Inuit people go back thousands of years and have specialised in surviving in this harsh climate. Along come the Europeans and dismiss them as savages. (The notable exception being Amundsen).
Timeworn classic friction between indigenous, or first nation peoples, and more powerful settlers from foreign lands has been repeated over hundreds of years, and is still going on.
The Canadian government have treated the Inuit with disdain and arrogance. Forcibly removing children from families, giving adults numbers (disk numbers) as opposed to learning their names, shooting sled dogs (for no good reason), exploiting natural resources with the attendant impact on wildlife that sustain the Inuit.
Whilst amends have been made, the memories are still painful for todays generation and the current indigenous population struggles to be heard.
It was a privilege to see the communities up close and recognise the deep rooted sense of respect for traditions and their Elders.
The scenery spoke for itself, the abiding memory being of stark, unspoilt, raw beauty.
Wildlife was scarcer than expected but the professionals on board spotted, identified and reported many species from sea, land and air.
The bonus to this sort of voyage is that fellow passengers are of a like mind and friendships are easily made leading to a very warm, convivial atmosphere on board.
The MS Fram is a ship that just "fits" in this environment. Very comfortable and provides surreal experiences such as serving the amuse bouche whilst gliding past an iceberg or having a barbecue on deck with the last known location of Sir John Franklin in the background.
Opmerkingen